SURF’S UP IN PADANG

WANT TO LEARN HOW TO SURF? MING CHIEN MAY JUST HAVE FOUND THE PERFECT PLACE

Indonesia has some of the best surfing waves in the world and Asian surfers are now among the best at mastering the waves which stretch around Indonesia’s vast coastline. Problem is, if you’re a complete novice, where can you learn to surf? Ideally, you need a place free from danger and embarrassment, as well as a patient instructor to help you master the art.

Sky Chia faced a similar dilemma.

The 17-year old Singaporean lives in surf-obsessed Australia and she had always wanted to learn. Yet finding suitable “learner” waves proved a real challenge. Coral surf breaks are common here, but can be painful when you get dumped. Beach breaks are much safer, but since they are harder to come by, they can become the most crowded part of the beach.

By word-of-mouth, Sky heard about Air Manis in West Sumatra, a secluded bay of wide expansive beach surrounded by forested hills. It is just 30 minutes from Padang and is perfect for beginners. Here, the surf breaks over soft sand, with gentle waves at a height of 0.5 to 1.5 meters. The water is clean, although not always clear due to the fine sand churned up by the waves. During surfing season from February to October you can surf all day.

Within an hour of landing in Padang, Sky was in Air Manis learning the basics of surfing from Jesse Liddon, a visiting West Australian instructor with nearly 30 years experience who, as legend would have it, could surf before he could walk.

With a patient instructor, learner surfers can find themselves standing on the board on their first day. The key is learning to “read” a wave, essential to positioning yourself at the precise spot where each surge of the wave thrusts you forwards. As you gradually master it, the feeling is unforgettable. While you will get dumped a few times, just relax, hold your breath and you’ll be fine. After all, Sky suffered a few “face plants” herself.

“It’s not very nice, especially getting tumbled by a second wave before I could even recover from the first one,” she laughs. Despite this, Sky was up and surfing again – and standing on the board on day one. She continued surfing for the whole week – sometimes twice a day.

After her days in the sun, the learner surfer has news for her parents on her plans after high school. “I’m going to work and surf for a year before going to university.”

In Padang, another surfer is born.

Where to surf

Surf lessons at Air Manis: Instructors are professional and trustworthy. Contact Rick Cameron, Mentawai Sanctuary, tel: +62 751767888. www.mentawai.com

More learner surfing in Indonesia: Kuta and Legian in Bali are world-renowned beach breaks for beginners to intermediate surfers. Pangandaran, West Java is open to the same Indian Ocean swells hitting Bali and Sumatra. Batu Keras, west of Pangandaran, Java offers 2-4 foot steady learner waves. Grupuk in south Lombok offers consistent 3 foot waves