3 DAYS, 2 NIGHTS SEMARANG

OFTEN OVERSHADOWED BY NEIGHBORING CITIES, CENTRAL JAVA’S REGIONAL CAPITAL OFFERS A FASCINATING BASE FOR EXPLORING THE REGION, AS LESTER LEDESMA DISCOVERS

DAY ONE

Arrive mid-afternoon, to give yourself enough time to take a leisurely stroll around the city’s downtown area. Semarang may be a bustling regional capital, but it retains countless traces of its colonial past. The streets surrounding Jalan Letjen Suprapto feature many interesting 18th-century Dutch warehouses, perhaps the most notable of which is the circa-1700s Gereja Blenduk, a Protestant church known for its exquisite Baroque-style organ and massive dome. Walk south a few blocks from here to the Chinese quarter, home to the beautiful Tay Kak Sie Taoist temple on Gang Lombok Street. Spend the late afternoon wandering the neighborhood, before heading off to the nearby Semawis night market on Gang Warung Street. Besides pasar malam clothes and knickknacks, the food here is tasty, such as the chewy, crunchy banana pancakes, fresh-cooked satay and Cantonese siomay. You’ll also find quirky characters like the chatty Chinese artist Suharto Martanto, who creates and sells his hand-painted prints by the roadside.

DAY TWO

Wake up early with a glass of strong, dark kopi tobruk, Javanese coffee served with sugar, but no milk, from a local hawker stand. This will leave you primed for a day of countryside sights and sounds. Before leaving the city, visit the Sam Po Kong temple in south-west Semarang. Built in honor of the famous Chinese explorer Admiral Zheng He (or Cheng Ho), who visited the area during his early 15th century Asian travels, this sprawling structure is testament to the Middle Kingdom’s mark on Indonesia’s history. Next, you’re off on a road trip north-east, towards a trio of lesser-known Central Java destinations. First is the holy town of Demak, a pilgrimage site thanks to the humble Agung Mosque that commemorates the arrival of Islam to Java. Next, the town of Kudus celebrates a unique Indonesian emblem – kretek cigarettes made of tobacco leaves laced with sweet, spicy cloves. The Kretek Museum details the product’s century-old history, while the adjacent Rumah Adat, a restored traditional Kudus house, displays the home interiors and intricate woodwork that the area is famous for. Should you wish to buy similar carvings, the roadside shops at the town of Jepara offer many quality choices. The real highlight here though is Kartini Beach, a favorite local hangout featuring a scenic seaside boardwalk, homemade shell crafts, and a giant sea turtle statue. Relax, then leave for Semarang by 5pm, leaving enough time to catch a lively performance by the Wayang Orang Ngesti Pandowo. Showtime is 8:30pm, expect a mix of traditional Javanese ballet and comedy acts.

DAY THREE

We’ve saved the best for last. From Sema-rang make your way one-hour south, past lush rice fields and gently rolling terrain towards the hillside community of Bandungan. Amidst the cool mountain air, a busy flower market sits in the town center. At one of the hawker stalls, enjoy a piping-hot soto ayam (chicken soup) while watching the residents go about their business in their colorful attire. Next, drive 10 minutes south to the Gedung Songo temples. This cluster of nine ancient Hindu shrines may

not be Java’s prettiest, but its setting on the mountainside overlooking the lowlands is perhaps the most stunning. After a brisk uphill hike, or renting a pony for an easier journey, you’ll reach the highest temples and be left breathless by the spectacular views. Then continue to Ambarawa for antiquities from a more recent era. At the Ambarawa Train Station Museum, you can see steam locomotives from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. After satisfying your inner mechanic, go for lunch at the world class Losari Coffee Plantation Resort and Spa’s restaurant. Specialities range from crispy ikan bakar colo colo (charcoal grilled fish) to sumptuous tongseng kambing (spicy lamb stew), washed down with tangy tamarind juice. From here, enjoy a relaxing massage at the spa (reservations are recommended), before driving south to the spectacular UNESCO World Heritage temple of Borobudur. Perched atop this huge monument is a suitably grand finishing point for a memorable trip in and around the soulful and underrated city of Semarang.

Contacts

• Gereja Blenduk: 32 Jalan Letjen Suprapto, Semarang  
• Tay Kak Sie Temple: Gang Lombok Street, Semarang  
• Sam Po Kong temple: 129 Jalan Simongan, Semarang  
• Kretek Museum: Jln Museum Kretek Jati Kulon  
• Wayang Orang Ngesti Pandowo TBRS Building, 30 Jalan Sriwijaya, Tickets at RP10,000  
• Losari Coffee Plantation Resort and Spa: Jln. Losari-Kragan, Magelang, www.losari.info, Tel: +62298-596333  
• Ambarawa Railway Museum: Jalan Setasiun No. 1, Ambarawa / Tel: +62298-91035  
• Borobudur Temple: Taman Wisata Candi Borobudur, Magelang /Tel: +62293-788131