BALI’S NEW EASTERN BITE IS AS FRESH AS THE SEA BREEZE. VE HANDOJO REPORTS

For years, the smart word with food lovers was that while Bali offered a smorgasbord of food from Western shores, it was all but barren when it came to interesting and affordable Asian cuisine. But those times seem far behind us now, as more visitors now hail from the East and seek a more genuine Asian dining experience. So leave those burgers or pizzas on the Kuta strip behind, and discover timeless classics, upmarket haunts and hidden culinary treasures serving quality Eastern bites across the island.

THE CLASSICS

There are few better places to start than at the original Made’s Warung in Seminyak. To lovers of this timeless restaurant, Made’s feels part of the island’s identity. It is also a must for first-time tourists and families, who will love popular offerings like the shabu-shabu. Paintings, memorabilia and nostalgic posters lend the indoor area a warm and cosy feel, and tables spill out into the courtyard. Distinguished local stores such as Jenggala homeware, Periplus bookstores, Bin House batik collection and Milo’s fashion surround the lively area.

The less crowded suburban Sanur is home to another classic, Cafe Batu Jimbar – a sun-soaked spot that redefines how you spend your Sunday mornings with its organic market. From 9am, the place helps heighten community awareness by involving locals to serve Indonesian traditional food such as tahu petis (very spicy tofu) and lontong sayur (rice cake with vegetables in coconut sauce and turmeric). This organic market occupies the front patio of the semi-open air casual dining square, where wood-paneled glass doors stretch from parquet floor to ceiling. Tiled triangle roofs also add to the intimate feel.

Dig a little deeper into your wallet at Jalan Kunti in Seminyak, where the two-storey Bale-Bali has been serving Chinese food since 2000. Modest in decor, Bale-Bali serves a delectable bebek dua rasa or two-flavoured duck; the sweet and sour fried gurame fish and grilled beef ribs in honey sauce are also highly recommended. After a delightful feast with a garden-like ambience, enjoy the laidback mini lounge upstairs with its pretty collection of silk-wrapped embroidered cushions.

Back in pulsating Seminyak, head to Japanese chain Ryoshi, which is famous for its reasonably priced and fresh sushi and sashimi. Be sure to try the buttery white marlin sashimi. Featuring bamboo, wood and paper panels, Ryoshi can be found in Sanur, Ubud and Nusa Dua. Seminyak is also home to Indian restaurant Queen’s Tandoor, which remains filled with enthusiastic diners since it opened in 2004. Offering treats from all regions of India that are prepared by Indian chefs, the restaurant’s main hall has high ceilings and a formal air, with a terrace that is more leisurely.

LAVISH HABITS

Recent additions to the Bali mix include the gorgeous beachfront Breeze at The Samaya. Its crispy soft shell crab with green mango papaya salad and Thai basil is a great choice for appetizer. As for the main course, you could do far worse than Noni-wrapped Tasmanian salmon with soba noodles, gai lan and vegetables in a lemongrass-shirodashi broth. Replete with Japanese lanterns, a wooden sundeck, a lush lawn and a lagoon-like pool, Breeze is perfect for romance.

At new and über cool restaurant Sarong, you could point at anything on the menu and not be disappointed. Rumor has it that the raw chicken or tuna on betel leaves will change your life; that its tandoori is well-spiced and elegant; and that the Sumatran chicken is tender, juicy and addictive. The elegant atmosphere is further enhanced by the super-sized mirror over the bar and its Baroque chandeliers.

Five-star hotels and resorts pay special attention to enriching Bali with Eastern bites, and charge unabashed five-star prices in doing so. In Tanjung Benoa, the Conrad Bali’s modern grill, Spice, offers a strong Asian twist; it also serves primal and rare sub-primal cuts of Wagyu beef with a marbling grade of 9+. Spice has an extensive Asian menu and its own tandoori oven.

St. Regis Bali, the latest addition to the luxurious Nusa Dua resort area, answers the call too with Boneka, which serves excellent chicken and beef curry dishes.

THE TREASURES

When you don’t feel like having a high-class meal, a small nasi Bali – or Bali-style rice – will serve you perfectly. Found on the sidewalks of Kuta, Legian and Tuban, this backpacker’s favorite comprises small portions of rice, chicken, veggies and an egg, served home-style.

If you have a Fear Factor-like taste for spicy food, head to Jalan Raya Kuta and the super hot chili rice vendor, Nasi Pedas. The chili steamed rice is guaranteed to make you sweat, and comes with a choice of crispy fried salted fish and crunchy chicken skin or vegetables. You eat it on communal long tables with plastic stools.

Famous among Indonesians and Javanese immigrants is Nasi Pecel Bu Tinuk on Jalan Raya Kuta, next to Kimia Farma pharmacy. The homemade cooking and its wide variety of sweet and sometimes spicy Indonesian dishes attract lunch-goers. Point at whatever you fancy, and the waiter will add each dish to your plate while he calculates the cheap price. Enjoy your meal inside the modest setting while the TV runs local favorite soap operas.

Finally, you can never claim to know Bali unless you munch its famous suckling pig. Bu Oka’s joint is legendary, but if Ubud is too far, visit Babi Guling Candra in Denpasar’s provincial Jalan Teuku Umar instead. Chewy skin crackers, pork sausages and super-tasty fish satay will fill your plate. Candra’s suckling pig is daredevil spicy. The warung is mediumsized, hot and mostly crowded, so wear your most comfortable clothes. See you there soon.

Contacts

Made’s Warung Jln Raya Seminyak, tel: (0)361 753 039, www.madeswarung.com 

Cafe Batu Jimbar Jln Danau Tamblingan 75A, Sanur, tel: (0)361 287 374, www.cafebatujimbar.com 

Bale-Bali Jln Kunti 48, Seminyak, tel: (0)361 732 731, www.barudibali.com/bale-bali 

Queen’s Tandoor Jln Raya Seminyak 73, tel: (0)361 732 770, www.queenstandoor.com 

Ryoshi Jln Seminyak 17, tel: (0)361 731 152, www.ryoshibali.com 

Breeze The Samaya, Jln Laksmana, Seminyak Beach, tel: (0)361 731 149, www.thesamayabali.com 

Sarong Jln Petitenget 19, Kerobokan, tel: (0)361 737 809, www.sarongbali.com 

Spice Conrad Bali, Jln Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa, tel: +62 361 778 788, www.conradhotels.com 

Boneka St. Regis Bali, Lot S6, Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua, tel: (0)361 847 8111, www.stregis.com/bali 

Nasi Pecel Bu Tinuk Jln Raya Kuta, next to Kimia Farma pharmacy, tel: (0)361 757 473, www.nasipecelbutinuk.baliklik.com