JUDGE A CITY ONLY ONCE YOU’VE HAD ITS BEST EXPERIENCES. RESIDENT JAKARTA SCENE WRITERS VE HANDOJO AND OLIVER ROBINSON SERVE A PLATTER OF THEIR FAVORITES – OFFERING A PLACE FOR EVERY OCCASION

PAPILION DUO

INDULGE THE WALLET

If shopping is your religion, Papilion Duo is a holy place. Happy credit card swipers recognize its tangible smell of luxury. The shop is mostly devoted to niche perfume, like Clive Christian No.1, a 30ml gold-plated bottle tagged ‘The World’s Most Expensive Perfume’. If you break it? “We’ll roll our bodies on the floor to clean up the mess,” jokes the shopkeeper. Then charge you 36,900,000 rupiah (US$3,690). Clothing includes Commes des Garçons and Balenciaga; with calf skin notebooks at 2 million rupiah (US$200) among the “affordable” items. Any guilt at over-spending soon fades though, munching on Huize van Wely chocolates in the bistro. (VH)

Pacific Place Mall, Ground Level SCBD, Jln Jend. Sudirman Kav 52-53, Jakarta Selatan, tel: (0)21 57973645

AKSARA

LITERARY CHIC

Hanging out in a Jakarta bookstore wasn’t cool until Aksara opened in Kemang in 2001. Decked in white and red, Aksara’s layout is impressive, and the book selection nicely varied, from Pulitzer-winners to Calvin & Hobbes comic strips. Choose from carefully organized CDs or vinyl records in the music corner. My favorite design book section covers architecture, fashion and art books. Aksara’s Pacific Place also has an eatery, creatively named Canteen, where you can sip a white chocolate martini. If there’s a better ending to a bookstore visit, I’d love to know it. (VH)

8B Jln Kemang Raya, tel: (0)21 719 9288, www.aksara.com

DRAGONFLY

DANCE OF THE FAMOUS

If there’s one thing Jakartans love it’s celebrity gossip, and the city is awash with singers and socialites. Intrigued, I was compelled to visit Jakarta’s celebrity HQ, Dragonfly. The hip club is a favorite haunt of the stars; and while there are often queues to get in, free entry enables anyone dressed sharply to gaze at the furrowed brows and pouts of the capital’s beautiful people. Sadly, the gossip column exploits usually take place after Dragonfly – or at cordoned-off VIP tables. But that just heightens the intrigue. (OR)

23 Jln Gatot Subroto, tel: (0)21 520 6789, www.ismayagroup.com/dragonfly

POTATO HEAD

FOR YUPPIES

During recessions, Jakarta yuppies take themselves less seriously, and spend more time in Potato Head. Its location across from Jakarta Stock Exchange means suited stockbrokers and entrepreneurs extend many lunches here, amid hundreds of teak louvers planted on the walls and ceilings, juxtaposed against Eko Nugroho’s contemporary drawing on the other side of the wall. My only headache is where to sit – the funky mezzanine, playful dining area, industrial-style long bar, or the plush daybeds. Each gives me more reason to keep coming back. (VH)

Pacific Place Mall G51A, SCBD, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav 52-53, Jakarta Selatan, tel: (0)21 515 3302, www.ptthead.com

BIRDCAGE

BEST BITES FOR VISITORS

As much as I want to whisk visitors to the nearest street stall, I know this is too much for many newcomers. In the meantime, try Bird Cage – a beautifully designed venue with a great outdoor terrace. The food is international fusion; from the freshest seafood you are likely to taste anywhere, to lip-smacking linguini, resplendent with mushroom and orange chicken, which is out of this world. My regular staple is the delicious pissaladière, topped with semi-dried tomatoes, bocconcini, basil pesto and rocket. (OR)

23 Jln Wijaya, tel: (0)21 739 2430

IMMIGRANT

BEST NIGHT OUT

I’ve never understood bars in shopping malls, so my expectations for Immigrant, which opened in March, weren’t high. This was soon forgotten, thanks to its striking industrial-chic décor – exposed-brick walls and gleaming metalwork evoking a 1920’s Manhattan ambience. And all with a splendid view of Jakarta’s gleaming skyline. The man behind the aesthetic is Sonny Sutanto, noted designer of Dragonfly. Immigrant’s mixed clientele is more concerned with having fun than striking a pose, while frenetic and charismatic bartenders seem to be into the music as much as you are. If it gets too loud, head to the spacious balcony for some conversation and a well-crafted cocktail. (OR)

Floor 6 Plaza Indonesia, Jln Thamrin, tel: (0)21 3983 8257, www.immigrant-jakarta.com

SALIHARA

BEST LIVE MUSIC

Jakarta rocks. No, really. TIME magazine says the city has the best alternative music scene in Asia. Intrigued, I headed to Salihara, a much-heralded gallery and music venue in South Jakarta. A who’s who of Indonesian music has played here and the venue doesn’t disappoint. The atmosphere, though cramped, tingles with energy. Key to Salihara’s intimacy is that its stage is not raised – I was wedged in a throng of hipsters, bouncing and tussled in unison with boundless enthusiasm, in one of the most memorable venues I’ve seen. (OR)

16 Jln Salihara, Pasar Minggu, tel: (0)21 789 1202

FX

CRAZIEST MALL

A 60-year-old grandmother happily grabbed a helmet, and slid from the seventh floor of FX mall, spiraling in its transparent tube to the ground floor, her grandchildren cheering. Welcome to Jakarta’s mall-crazed peak. On level two are 12 futuristic meeting rooms, equipped with cutting-edge technology. Platinum XXI offers luxury studios playing Hollywood blockbusters, while on the sixth floor, a maze of small stores offers everything from vintage rock t-shirts to fortune-telling crystal balls – telling you the future is even crazier. (VH)

Jln Jenderal Sudirman, Pintu Satu Senayan, (0)21 3003 0888, www.fx-generation.com

THE PAPILLION

BEST ARCHITECTURE

It’s hard not to slow your car when passing this glass-walled building on Jalan Kemang Raya. The Papilion is crystal clear by day and playfully lit at night. Local architect Gregorius Supi has built a glossy building that invites natural lighting and saves energy to boot. Its surrounding pool affords a serene welcome, while marble interiors reflect the light impressively. On the top floor, former Bond girl Anouska Hempel contributes her black-and-white French fine dining, at SHY. (VH)

45 Jln Kemang Raya, tel: (0)21 719 0789, www.thepapilion.com

JALAN BIAK, ROXY

BEST STREET FOOD

Choice anxiety is the best way to describe picking Jakarta’s best street eats. Yet if I flew in for one dish, I’d head to Sudi Mampir and Dudung on Jalan Biak Roxy, serving possibly the best meat broth you are ever likely to taste. The soto (coconut milk-based soup) is hearty and unmistakably Jakartan, made more satisfying by warm smiles from the staff, who are delighted by my voracious appetite for this dish that their families have been making for centuries. (OR)

Sop Kaki Sudi Mampir, Jln Biak, Roxy, Jakarta Pusat, tel: (0)815 1358 8891.

JALAN SENOPATI RAYA

HIP RETAIL STREET

Jalan Senopati Raya is subtle and human, and almost free of chain outlets. The street has a French flavor, with upscale florist Christian Tortu, and Emilie for fine dining. Local coffee shops include Anomali (page 28) and Bakoel Koffie, while my treasure-trove is above Vietnamese canteen, Vietopia. Called Temple Trees, it sells toys, Buddha heads and great accessories by designer Tasha D. If only it had decent sidewalks, Senopati would get a 10 out of 10. (OR)

16 Jln. Salihara, Pasar Minggu, tel: (0)21 789 1202

CIKINI

FOR INSPIRATION

Jakarta may seem only geared to big business, but a more soulful side can be found at Cikini. Here, the Jakarta Art Institute provides a focal point for artists, academics and musicians. A number of cafés and restaurants have flourished, where sensitive souls mull the meaning of life over their café au lait. While anyone can wander the IKJ campus, keep an eye on the schedule of Galeri Cipta (II and III), which exhibits works by international artists and the hottest local talent. (OR)

Institut Kesenian Jakarta, TIM Complex, 73 Jln Cikini Raya, (0)21 392 4018, www.ikj.ac.id