FASHIONING THE FUTURE

TWO RISING TALENTS IN INDONESIAN FASHION SHARE STORIES AND STYLE ADVICE WITH VE HANDOJO

The catwalk in fashion brand store Harvey Nichols is invaded by sharp-limbed models, dressed in blazing red. They stride forward confidently, each carrying the hopes of Stella Rissa. For the 24-year-old standing among mannequins dressed in Oscar de la Renta and Alexander McQueen, this is a big moment. As the lights lift, Rissa is awarded the Indonesian New Designer 2009 award by ELLE Indonesia.

By most standards, Indonesia’s fashion industry has progressed slowly over the past three decades. While innovation is seldom lacking, business shortcomings have often slowed otherwise promising starts. Until recently, local design houses seldom reached the country’s mass market. Yet in the past decade, more confident Indonesian consumers and an increasingly robust industry have hinted at change. Helping this is a host of fresh faces, bringing broader industry knowledge, thanks to fashion internships and scholarships. Some, like Stella Rissa, are already finding their market niche.

“Stella can package the feminine side of a woman within an outfit with strong characters, and manage to keep her sexy,” says Amanda Prihutomo, ELLE Indonesia fashion editor. Having graduated as best student from LaSalle College Jakarta in 2006, Rissa was recently preparing a collection of her new ready-to-wear line, STELLA.R, for Blackmarket boutique in the Audi Singapore Fashion Festival.

Another rising name in fashion design is Rama Dauhan, lead designer for Indonesian label (X)S.M.L, the streetwear line of Biyan Wanaatmadja, an Indonesian fashion legend. A graduate of ESMOD Jakarta, Dauhan has played a vital part in the brand’s success over the past six years.

Behind his oversized spectacles, 27-year-old Dauhan enthuses about his label. “It is a ready-to-wear collection with a designer’s touch – a local name which we are all proud to wear.”

Critics are impressed. “The dynamic and stylish construction of each design, washed in natural colors, has been (X)S.M.L’s signature style,” says Men’s Folio Indonesia editor Maesa Nicholas.

“Rama’s design has encouraged the customers not to merely follow a trend, but start one.” Initially, Dauhan’s family was harder to win over. “My parents weren’t so big with the idea of their only son becoming a fashion designer,” he smiles. “My father is a civil engineer, my elder sister an architect. Fashion sounded more glamorous than serious.”

It’s tough to be both a credible and financially successful fashion designer in Indonesia, especially for those shying away from over-priced wedding gowns or custom-made cocktail dresses. “I always make sure that my style won’t fly too much over substance,” says Rissa.

For the new STELLA.R line, she will aim for around a dozen pieces per design. “I don’t want to get stuck in a certain style yet. I’ve always hated pink, but my collection for Blackmarket is dominated by pink and black. I like going beyond my own borders.”

Dauhan admits he would love his own menswear label. “But I still want to learn some more, and go to fashion school again.” This workaholic prefers a tranquil setting when he’s designing. “I love working in my office with my team of four, and probably accompanied by some lazy Sunday tunes.”

Rissa says: “I love working when everybody’s asleep. I’ll be alone in my room, lock the doors, and drape some samples of garment over my body. I will wear a tank top and shorts – but sometimes nothing.”

So what are some do’s and don’ts of daily fashion today? For career women on the move, Rissa suggests wearing something comfortable, to make movement easier. “Match it with a formal blazer, perhaps a long, beige-colored one, over a white shirt. Tie this with a belt – and wear a nice watch.”

As not all male business travelers are in perfect shape, Dauhan suggests basic colors like black and navy blue. “Be a bit flexible with the pants. They don’t always have to be formal, sometimes cargo pants will do.

Match them with a comfortable linen shirt. Then a fine watch, a nice bag, and a pair of good shoes are vital.”

In addition to talent and work ethic, Rissa, Dauhan and other young designers will need equal measures of luck and support to propel Indonesian fashion to a new frontier. But in their hands, the future looks stylish.

Contacts

(X)S.M.L
Level 2, E17-18, Plaza Indonesia, 28-30 Jln MH Thamrin, tel: (0)21 3190 0103
STELLA RISSA
Sunrise Garden, 12a Jln Surya Timur, Block 3F tel: (0)21 582 1205